www.diycinema.co.uk

[doug]

After my pistons blew up I've slowly been putting things back together, here's some pics for anyone who's interested...

First up engine out, i used Pats drop prep here: http://www.mrtwo.net/mr2modproject/mr2modproject.htm









Exedy clutch, still looks like there's plenty of life left in it



Suspected ringland failure but no scoring !!!



I should have got the right tool for this! Passing nuts through from the other side took ages!




Looks a bit varnished..





Valves looks alright except a couple on the exhaust side...



And here we are!






Well pleased i got away with no bore damage!

Last edited by doug on Tue Sep 22, 2009 6:53 pm; edited 1 time in total

[doug]

With new parts it was time to build the block

First up were the oil squirter's! 5mm allen key.




Bottom end: I put in a full set of ACL race bearings and thrust washers in here, only cost me £50 delivered from the states!





Thanks to Flashmetal I got a genuine Toyota full engine gasket kit



Oil pump, you have to take the entire sump off to change it! I checked mine and it was in brand new condition, just put some new gaskets in



Oil strainer, i noticed this had about 10 chunks of grit in it, i think they were bits of sand/shrapnel from the castings. They certainly weren't metal. I guess it did it's job!



Sump on, loads of bolts and instant gasket...




Pistons in with a ring compressor...(note i had the crank in by this stage)



Pistons looking happy. I got the hone done locally, the guy did an awesome job, checked everything to the factory spec and only charged £40!



Bolting the head back on. Got some new bolts from ebay..




90 degree twist at the end, felt like they were gonna snap!



A few more bits on...you can see the water pump above the oil pump here, easy to change if you're doing the belt at the same time.




PS. ignore the watermark (forgot to turn it off!)

Let me know if you spot anything out of place!

[doug]

Right so here's what happened today/yesterday..

I ordered a ct20 rebuild kit for the turbo a while back from a place in the states. Since my turbo wasn't leaking oil and nothing had started rubbing yet the plan was to rebuild it keeping the same alignment of the exhaust, shaft and compressor wheels and save the cash on getting someone else to do it for me.

I started by taking the thing apart. The compressor side cover came off real easy after i took the circlip off...




Next i tried to get off the exhaust side which was a real swine. I tried to be nice, i tried all the tricks but it just didn't work so out came the :woc:! I sharped up a chisel and hammered it between the joint. This worked a treat




Next i took the compressor nut off. Remember this is a LH thread! I found a 13mm 12 point socket fitted fairly well onto the ceramic turbine wheel and with a bit of insulating tape on the inside it held up fairly well while i undid the other side with some mole grips...



This circlip holds on the seal plate:



Here's the ceramic wheel, absolutely covered in crap!



And here's the nice new seal plate from my rebuild kit. Noticed it's about 10mm smaller in diameter :shrug:



And here's my new shaft nut, wrong thread! And then i checked the new bearings and they were way too big, arghhh!!



After getting throughly pissed off i staggered about 300m down the road (i'm not joking!) and came across a turbo rebuild specialist! Looked like it had only been there for a few months, i was well pleased!

Had a chat with the guy and he reckoned he had all the parts to get it sorted so left him with the turbo about 5pm yesterday.

I then got a call this morning (about 11am) saying it was finished and i could pick it up! Talk about fast! He took 250 coins out my pocket and handed this over:




Absolutely spotless

He'd replaced all the bearings, thrust plate, seals and the compressor wheel, balanced everything up with a giant machine and he even gave me a bag of new exhaust studs and the gaskets to go with it!



He then pulled out a cut away Toyota turbo and showed me everything he'd changed, gave me my old compressor wheel back and pointed out just how worn it was:



Not sure why i never noticed this, i thought it was just the normal shape! He reckons thats what you get for using a dodgy air filter! Wasn't me!

I then did some other boring bits, like unseizing the rear calipers. The slider bolt on both sides had rusted in, 2 new bolts later and it worked perfectly again.

Hopefully tomorrow i'll have my micrometer for the valve gaps

[doug]

Spent most of today cleaning and painting stuff, pretty boring.

Here's some pics of the pistons, nothing interesting as they're not even forged and it's not like it's hard to put them together but it might be of some use! They set me back £55 delivered from the states, jap made with a full set of nippon piston rings! Very slightly higher compression so i'm hoping for a tiny bit more torque and off boost fuel economy running the stock 13psi. If i had a bit more cash i would have went forged but in the end i decided on a totally stock build.

Here's getting the orientation right, notice the indent on the top of the piston and the ridge on the con rod i'm pointing to:



Nice clean parts



Toyota reckon you need to heat the pistons to 90 degrees to get the pins in, i got mine in with a bit of oil at room temp. I reckon the clearance isn't quite as tight:



Pins are held in by snap rings, be careful not to position the end of the ring near the recess in the piston.



Here's my rings, one stainless, one cast iron, two oil scraper retainers and the scraper ring:



The scraper ring just fits on by hand:



Then there's the two retainers:



Ring expander cost me £2.50, helps avoid damage:



And three more to go!

One thing you do have to remember is the position of the ring gaps. The BGB is very specific about this, they go on the opposite corners of the piston away from the thrust side. No ring gaps should be aligned.



As a side note if you have genuine Toyota pistons they come in different sizes matched to the block bore. I think there are 3 increments of 0.005mm or something extremely small. The same goes for the rest of the block. I suppose it all adds up to a super tight motor but i wonder if it makes much difference?

Last edited by doug on Tue Sep 22, 2009 6:35 pm; edited 1 time in total

[doug]

I checked the valve clearances, they were all fine before i started but after i got my exhaust valves tidied up they got a bit out of spec!

Notice the rev 3 engine requires a looser spec than the earlier models on the exhaust side by a full 0.08mm, at first i thought i had nothing to do!



I ended up with about 2 valves out of spec and about 3 more on the border, all of which were too tight. I grabbed a micrometer, a bit of tempered glass and various grades of wet and dry paper. The next 4 hours were spent carefully sanding down my shims to get everything just as it should be. Although this method took ages it worked a treat! Shims nice and flat and exactly the thickness i wanted them.



Timing belt then got put on, i've got more pics to come of this! The next challenge was to move the thing down to the car before it got too heavy!



Wild Bill came out to give a hand with the lifiting...



And after a quick 3 point turn we then picked it up and carried it down to the car....



Then some nice shiny bit's got put on lol



And some more...



Shifting the engine into place should have been easy but the gravel drive made it a nightmare!



Wild Bill got suited up to give a hand..



We then hoisted the car up and pushed it into place..



And before it got dark we had most of the mounts on with just a bit of plumbing to look forward to tomorrow!

[doug]

And here it is all plumbed back in..



I forgot to hook up the starter motor earth but after i'd sorted that it fired up first time



So far it's done ~ 12,000 miles on the new rebuild

[Marticus]

VERY NICE!

glad to hear it's running well. have you had it dyno'd to check the power?

also is that the rear of an integra is see there? another nice car!